Tip: A piece of fabric in fashion history


At peak are the ghosts: the one think of grandma’s doilies, dusty curtains look and find it hopelessly old-maidish. For others it is the stuff of which dreams are made: seductive touch of a little more than nothing; Evergreen refined lingerie and lingerie. But peak is much too beautiful to hide under it.

Disguise to revealing, tightening to pull out, the game of seduction is elemental theme of fashion. No other piece of fabric that embodies so much like the veil, as tulle and subtle, this handsome ornament prescribed sister – the tip. Black and White, widow’s veil, baptismal and wedding dress, when it comes to life or death, is top of the party. Tip is always drama and also the very large, glamorous appearance.

The haute couture tailoring tips from their opulent robes. But the luxurious fabric does not play in any fashion season both his starring role. Alberta Ferretti and Valentino come out in their collections always happy as confessing lace fans.

In Milan, Dolce & Gabbana showed their ready-to-wear collection for Fall / Winter 2012/13 and enveloped the unapproachable as sexy femme fatale in night-black lace, men umgarnende Sicilian led a walk in the innocence of white fabric with integrated air conditioning. In September 2012 it was Oscar de la Renta, who reveled for its spring collection 2013 in tips.

St. Gallen is top

Many big fashion houses swear tip from Switzerland, more eastern Switzerland: the famous St. Gallen or guipure lace. At Oscar de la Renta they seek to be the dream of an evening dress, their distinctive flowers in signal red. St. Galler top producers, the network for haute couture as ready-to-wear traditional craftsmanship and innovative spirit of the age, are Forster Rohner and Jakob Schlaepfer.

Schlaepfer can refer as a corporate reference to posts by Romeo Gigli, Albert Kriemler (Akris), Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro to Gabriele Strehle (Strenesse). His top tips turned designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton and Vivienne Westwood in precious exhibits.

Swiss lace

He was wearing his vineyard around his neck, is a nobleman who is known in the French court of the Sun King. Whose proceeds had just enough for the spikes that adorned his neck. The fabric with the clear view belonged for centuries with the most precious materials and gave St. Gallen once their wealth. The history of the peaks began in the 15th Century in northern Italy. There were the first needle tips, called “Reticella” manufactured.

Venice on the tip spread throughout Europe. In lace technique handmade lace enormously (time) was expensive and so exorbitantly expensive that they could only really enjoy “well-heeled”. The first machine-made lace suggests the great hour of Switzerland. For the wedding of the peak production led a direct train from St. Gallen to Paris. In America, Swiss lace was so popular that you St. Gallen winking the suburbs of New York called.

Embroidered, not gekloppelt

Who guipure lace corrosive place is by a specialist. The name comes from the French guipure lace “guiper” meaning envelop. In 1882 the process was invented, the openwork lace pattern with embroidery machines to first on a base fabric. By a chemical process which is then removed again, is thus etched away. Guipure suitable for different materials such as cotton, wool or even metallic threads and it is indistinguishable from handmade Kloppelpitze barely. Mass-produced, it is still not over 1000 francs per meter cost they can.

Special lace vintage

The century-old family company Forster Rohner made already in the fifties, guipure lace for Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior guipure lace. The archive with a sample reservoir of over 400,000 embroidery is a Mecca for fashion designers. It is searching for Karl Lagerfeld in old pattern books, if this is looking for a rare, historic peak.

For Louis Vuitton is produced, Armani, Chanel and Dior. Miuccia Prada was going on but in 2008 a real boom tip when she processed solely for a single collection sensational seven hundred meters precious tip of Forster Rohner and a majority of its over 40 models so ausstaffierte. In early 2009 the plant was again on everyone’s lips.

Michelle Obama wore at her husband’s inauguration as president of a dress from designer Isabel Toledo lemongrass colored Forster Rohner St. Gallen tip.